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Edinburgh is miles ahead
EDINBURGH is set in a spectacular landscape of volcanic hills and crags, dominated by its famous castle and decorated with the Gothic Royal Mile in the Old Town and elegant Georgian terraces of the New Town.

For years playing Cinderella to swinging Glasgow, Edinburgh has now become Scotland's coolest hangout.

Traditional attractions Hogmanay and Edinburgh Festival have been recently augmented by a brash coterie of designer hotels, gourmet restaurants, upmarket health clubs and posh Harvey Nichols and Louis Vuitton stores.

To the north, Leith is the main port, a dockside precinct reborn with fashionable pubs and restaurants and even a beach, of sorts.

Morning: Be a tourist

Explore Edinburgh Castle, containing more legend and lore than anywhere else in Scotland. Stroll down the Royal Mile, reputed to be the city's oldest street, to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official Scottish residence of the Queen and former home of Mary Queen of Scots.

Comprising five linked streets, the Royal Mile is lined with upscale restaurants, coffeehouses, pubs and souvenir and woollens shops. Visit Camera Obscura, a building that projects live images of the city on to a white viewing table through a pinhole periscope and documents the history of photography and holography.

St Giles Cathedral on High St was built in 1120 and you can study the secrets of the "water of life" as you sample some at the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre.

Down the steep, narrow Advocate's Close, Dom is a superb artist-run gallery in a restored 15th century tenement at No 8, Edinburgh's oldest house.

Lunch: From organic to dynamic

There's good cheap pub grub at the 16th century White Hart Inn (34 Grassmarket), reputedly the city's oldest pub. Multi-award-winning Urban Angel Cafe and Deli (121 Hanover St) serves organic soups, salads, tapas, seafood, bangers and mash, pastas and haggis. Three-courses average $33 to $43.

The ultra-modern Blue (10 Cambridge St) serves local seasonal food from an eclectic menu with mains from $30 to $35, while the Caffe Bar in the iconic Valvona and Crolla Deli (19 Elm Row) dishes up hearty Italian food from $24 for penne pasta or pizza to $37 for a char-grilled Aberdeen Angus rib eye steak.

At The Kitchin (78 Commercial Quay, Leith) Scotland's youngest Michelin-starred chef, Tom Kitchin, creates boned boar head rolled in breadcrumbs served with fried egg and crispy ears, wild sea trout and iced honey peppered parfait. Three courses cost about $45.

Afternoon: Get some art and shopping under your belt

Comb through the cafes and boutiques of the Georgian district of Stockbridge and stroll along the Water of Leith, a pretty waterside path through Dean Village to the Dean Gallery and the Gallery of Modern Art on Belford Rd.

Visit the National Gallery of Scotland and the National Museum of Scotland with the finest Scottish collection of natural history, geology, archeology, technology and science.

Take the Majestic Bus Tour from Waverley Bridge to the Royal Botanic Gardens and the Royal Yacht Britannia, where you can explore the royal family's former private quarters.

Nightlife: Let your hair down in Grassmarket

Grassmarket district has scores of restaurants and pubs and there are theatres, art-house cinemas and concerts at venues in the West End.

The spooky 16th century Tollbooth Tavern (Royal Mile) has a terrific old-world atmosphere while The Dome (14 George St) is a very stylish club. But the coolest place is currently Lulu, in the basement of the Tigerlily Hotel (125b George St).
 
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